tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-54690615766933204322024-01-18T13:27:33.958-08:00Random RailroadAfter years making models in HO scale and never really realizing a complete model railway, I discovered O scale, and how much I really love building models in 1:48 scale. Then I discovered N scale. Perhaps it's just time to admit that I like building model railways of all sorts, and just get on with it!
Follow along as I test and experiment with new things, and have a little fun at the same time. I will endeavor to share as much as I can--Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.comBlogger116125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-27006478259562760892016-11-24T17:56:00.001-08:002016-11-24T17:56:14.635-08:0019th Century Freight Wagon 01<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This is a mixed media model of a 19th century freight wagon. The prototype for this wagon was used widely from the late eighteenth century to the mid 19th century, though they were so heavily constructed many lasted quite a long time. The shape to the body was designed to keep material on board while traversing grades. </div>
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The model below is a quickly made"first draft" made of 3d printed parts and paper. Several parts need refinement, and the body height needs to be adjusted. Looking forward to making the next steps and doing a more careful build of this one.</div>
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-50244832116042800732016-07-05T05:37:00.005-07:002016-11-24T15:04:42.506-08:00Dick Kerr 12I've been slow in updating the blog, but the Dick Kerr Project is really moving. There is increasing interest in the possibility of a Dick Kerr kit as people see the project in social media. I've found that it's possible to achieve the extremely fine detail I want using the Form 2 printer. This includes profiles beyond the published capabilities of the machine, providing things are appropriately oriented and optimized. Very glad I upgraded. A gallery of updates follows. I'm looking forward to getting this painted. The floor is laser etched from wood--the only part not made on the Form 2 at this point aside from a couple bits of brass.<br />
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-59757887277633950372016-07-05T05:37:00.004-07:002016-11-24T14:55:37.643-08:00Backhead and gears fresh from the printer, Dick Kerr 11<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The back head printed beautifully. The control lever is a bit too far to the left. I did this for support, but think I can now push it over. Will also add rivet detail I think.</div>
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The chassis looks a bit abstract, but everything seems to fit right. Looking forward to getting it off the supports.<br />
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Gears mesh well! I'm thinking this might actually work now.</div>
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-84349165817904455592016-07-04T10:18:00.001-07:002016-11-24T14:55:14.591-08:00Backhead and under the hood for the Dick Kerr 10<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've been busy on the Dick Kerr, mainly working on the "backhead" and technical items. The detail in the above image looks crude, until you consider how small this little loco is, the cab could be mistaken for an HO scale RS3, and the interior here shown is just a fraction of that. I've made a couple compromises, but, they should not be noticable through the cab door. <br />
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I've also designed a set of spur gears for the revised Mechanism. The real work was done using the fantastic program Gearotic Motion. I was originally planning to machine these with the Roland mill, but I am going to use these to put the Form 2 to the test today. Any significant distortion will cause problems with these small gear of 9mm and 14mm diameter. If they don't work I can always make them on the Roland. If they do work, I may need to cast them in a softer plastic. We'll see.<br />
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Bruce Wilson proposed a set up from Hollywood Foundry that looks very good--I may go ahead and make one of my mechanisms, and order a Hollywood Foundry item for the second, just to make the body adaptable to something that is not as custom as my solution.<br />
<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-7760639207719615712016-06-26T11:41:00.001-07:002016-06-26T11:41:34.516-07:00Oyster CarNow that things are moving again, there is space to day dream about adding yet another project to the list. Gasp! Not another.....yes, another. But I promise there is more progress in the wings on a few fronts. <br />
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Colin King's post on the Friends of MRCS Facebook page gets the blame. The little nugget he posted from Wikipedia for Schools led me to do a bit more digging, which promptly turned up a set of articles in The Cannonball, the newsletter of the Sunrise Trail Division of the NMRA. The 2 part article series chronicles one modelers journey to building such a car. I feel a lot better about my random pursuits reading this set of articles, because the author's journey is nearly as long as my life. By those standards I'm at least on pace, or maybe even a speedy modeler. The two articles can be found here: http://www.sunrisetraildiv.com/ . The two issues are fall and winter 2014. <br />
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-75464990608330473382016-06-11T11:08:00.000-07:002016-06-26T11:08:39.639-07:00Boiler House<i>This is the last of the retro-posts, after this we're all caught up. I've gone ahead and dated the posts in appropriate chronology to keep things organized. We'll see if I can keep current for a bit.</i><br />
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I've always loved the steam boiler house at the Rhode Island State Capital. It's traditional form and diminutive size make it a perfect model subject. Added to the list!<br />
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-9414505878295046302016-06-03T10:49:00.000-07:002016-11-24T14:54:59.780-08:00Dick Kerr 09<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>A retro-post from June 3, 2016, we're almost caught up.</i></div>
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I've gone ahead and assembled the first set of Dick Kerr Prints. All I can say is "wow" to the Form 2. Once primed, these will require very little post production. I'm confident that I can make the body consistently. Time now to step back and fill in a couple details such as the cab interior and the brake system. Also need to work out the mechanism mounting. Briefly flirted with the idea of making this little monster "dead rail" using my new Blue Rail Board from David Rees.</div>
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-71534161592021772162016-06-02T10:41:00.000-07:002016-06-26T10:53:53.860-07:00<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Another retro-post to catch us up.</i></div>
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The Dick Kerr Coupler printed on Form 2. The part is designed to fit a standard Kadee draft gear box. I've added a vertical hole to the pin slot to allow cars to be coupled using a "staple" as a link. I still need to test whether this can be done with a magnet, but I'll need to get some rolling stock going to do so.</div>
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-5259380866028579782016-05-31T10:35:00.000-07:002016-11-24T14:54:09.997-08:00Reviving Dick Kerr 08<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>A retro post from late Spring 2016..... I promise, we're catching up.</i></div>
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The Dick Kerr Project reached a stopping point when we relocated. To be honest, however, I was at a frustrating juncture because I had designed the pieces based on what I thought were the limits of the Formlabs Form 1. As it turns out, the parts I designed were right at the limits, and probably slightly beyond judging by the success rate and the gymnastics I had to do to print them consistently.</div>
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Enter Form 2. Thanks to a loyalty upgrade, I switched Form 1 for Form 2. Before I reworked any files I went ahead and set up prints with the existing file. All I can say is that the improvements to the peel mechanism, resin level management and laser power make a difference. Taken together with the addition of a tank heater, the machine is a dream. Resolution is much more consistent.</div>
<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-33883725618596547732016-02-21T10:05:00.000-08:002016-06-26T10:58:48.127-07:00Uncle Paul's gets an awning<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>A retro post from Winter 2016.</i></div>
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More than a few projects came along for the ride. It was nice to re-visit Uncle Paul's--I've been thinking about the awning, and decided it was time to tackle it. The prototype has faded letters with soft edges, mainly from the paint or pigment "bleeding" into the adjacent canvas. I think I can do it with the airbrush, but I need a frame to start with, so I got this bad boy soldered up.</div>
Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-91321798855408460732016-02-01T10:00:00.000-08:002016-06-26T11:01:25.115-07:00Catching up on kits<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>A retro post from Winter 2016.</i></div>
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With a new place to work, I was finally able to catch up on a few kits purchased since the move. Carts from Train Troll, a Dory by Atlantic Scale Models, and tools from Alkem Scale Models. I built the Train Troll kit's and the tools as designed, dedicating my attention to painting. The Dory received minor modifications, including oar locks soldered from brass wire. All fun builds that I'm looking forward to using on the new railway.</div>
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-63880673075686898112016-01-30T09:50:00.000-08:002016-06-26T11:02:47.496-07:00Layout and bench<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<i>Another retro-post from early 2016.</i></div>
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The bench work went in without a hitch. There was some minor shimming to do, but I'm glad planning went well. The bench work was prefabricated in Utah, far from where I am currently. I am glad I got the dimensions right enough that all went to plan.<br />
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The reverse angle shows the leaf in upright position, allowing more light on the work bench and access to the window. I should point out now that the main portion of the room is 7'x9'. I'm working in a space and a format that might be more familiar to a modeler in the UK.<br />
<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-67552345339698617452016-01-12T09:27:00.000-08:002016-06-26T11:00:35.362-07:00A new start for the Virgin and Lost Shore<i>I won't apologize for being away, as most people understand that hobbies can come in fits and starts. Part of the randomness of "Random Railroad" is simply that things have a way of changing. I'm finally catching up with the blog. Although dated June, this and the next several posts re-cap the time elapsed since January (Written June 2016).</i><br />
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After a year or more of getting settled in a new place, a new place for a workshop has been established and a shelf layout started. Step one, let's make the room sky blue and start day dreaming.</div>
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From there I made a few sketches for a possible model railway.</div>
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The thought here was that I could have fun with an inglenook and make just enough scenery to finish in the time we'll be living in this house. Since I tend to favor structures and rolling stock, the layout is decidedly urban. I'm keeping the Virgin and Lost Shore name, as well as the slogan, "the lost shore lines".</div>
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The bench work cantilevers off the wall and is attached with french cleats and T-nuts. This will make removal a snap when we next re-locate and allow me to take the work with me.</div>
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<a aria-label="Photo - Landscape - Jan 8, 2016, 2:32:08 PM" class="p137Zd" href="https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMUIoB99jAxcEFo3NfjeeAPXw2nGF_ukmADaZTP" jsaction=" click:eQuaEb;focus:AHmuwe; blur:O22p3e;" tabindex="0"></a><br />
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Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-21318263983421320812014-04-06T15:01:00.003-07:002014-04-06T15:01:58.580-07:00Mack AC 01I took a break from digital work to finish up a couple Mack AC kits that have been sitting on my desk. Mostly airbrush work, though I took some time to detail the dump as a coal delivery. Bernie Kempinski pointed out that these could appear in a WWI layout. . . . I may have to get another. The kit by Backwoods Miniatures is excellent, clean crisp castings with beautiful detail. A couple fiddly bits one needs to be careful with, but overall very robust: highly recommend the kits.<br />
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<br />The coal truck features tarps that were made from tea bags. I lightly airbrushed them with white, beige, and black, and then formed them using dilute white glue. I'm thinking I'll need to make a terrain base for photographs, as the real terrain is vastly out of scale!<br />
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The green truck is just a chassis for the moment. I am going to build a sheep camp to put on it at some future point I think. I took some time to look at the prototype Mack paint jobs, and it seemed that all red and all orange schemes were common, as was a green on red scheme. In most cases the running gear was in color. Given that these are likely for the Lost Shore layout, I faded them a bit, as if they had been in the desert sun.</div>
<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-36980589225666016952014-03-13T21:14:00.001-07:002014-03-13T21:14:27.698-07:00Dick Kerr WDLR 07Everyone is probably getting bored of the Dick Kerr right now, but it's moving along. Work has kept me away this week, but I still managed to finish up the cab. I'm so happy with it that I'm going to take another crack at the sides--I think I can do better. The test print of the cab is in the printer now.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGzQQdwsK4xUlWSioYMfucvmr9UDy4XNcWCi91PhXy91cJPvzykNm8Hc5h4sFw-vld4MwutYTNxWwuOBJvtYuvgtNuiWoYZCpMJKqDtSAfNjI2l065n8jfGrLjqxjIYF6vwj9cIYKMbE7/s1600/Full+monty.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieGzQQdwsK4xUlWSioYMfucvmr9UDy4XNcWCi91PhXy91cJPvzykNm8Hc5h4sFw-vld4MwutYTNxWwuOBJvtYuvgtNuiWoYZCpMJKqDtSAfNjI2l065n8jfGrLjqxjIYF6vwj9cIYKMbE7/s1600/Full+monty.JPG" height="239" width="320" /></a></div>
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One thing of note is that I "relieved" the windows in the cab, meaning I tapered the section of the wall near the window so they look near scale thickness. This allows a thicker body wall. I'm going to give that treatment to the body sides. You can see the tapering around the windows and the holes in the transparent version below. I'm waiting to see the test print before I decide how to break it apart.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXjCBVZDo0S8Q7-YDoYHocyIDPUNNhh2C7ZT7D5vgBwi1nselB9uGfCMYtXtgSMy-m-dzv0ZjRTYpnJhBJkkqhg34eHsl2aFkt8S4m06PhNmQZh0BxGVKVGNIXEavMOhtbu5knNXM4XQXk/s1600/Cab.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjXjCBVZDo0S8Q7-YDoYHocyIDPUNNhh2C7ZT7D5vgBwi1nselB9uGfCMYtXtgSMy-m-dzv0ZjRTYpnJhBJkkqhg34eHsl2aFkt8S4m06PhNmQZh0BxGVKVGNIXEavMOhtbu5knNXM4XQXk/s1600/Cab.JPG" height="241" width="320" /></a></div>
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The other major step forward was developing a WDLR coupler. I've designed it to work in a Kadee draft gear box. I'm making a custom Kadee style box for the Kerr. This way I can use standard Kadee centering springs, and allows for Kadee/WDLR couplers to be interchangeable. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJrPdAR6OP5h6TAYLxYonX37vDm3DLqE0Wx79XysKMMa619bOMRH40xj7gQE1-tq2g4OH1KdpXfLAMZh7f0ICE8oXmz_7vaBJ1w5f-RbpDRG3X3KGkl9Xn1olcwHi9iTc66iaJIcrw2AS/s1600/WDLR+Kadee.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsJrPdAR6OP5h6TAYLxYonX37vDm3DLqE0Wx79XysKMMa619bOMRH40xj7gQE1-tq2g4OH1KdpXfLAMZh7f0ICE8oXmz_7vaBJ1w5f-RbpDRG3X3KGkl9Xn1olcwHi9iTc66iaJIcrw2AS/s1600/WDLR+Kadee.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />My WDLR coupler head is faithful, save for an additional vertical hole I've added to allow for coupling with a small staple. It's based on drawings and photos. Here is the first test print. <br />
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Note the heel of the coupler is extended in this version--I had momentarily thought of an alternate centering scenario for use on a WDLR bogie, but quickly realized that the Kadee spring solution was a good one.Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-22732152422028064322014-02-25T20:24:00.000-08:002014-02-25T20:24:25.725-08:00Water Tower 06<br />
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I needed a break from the Kerr, so I've squeezed in some time on the water tower. I feel like both the Kerr and the water tower are in striking distance for completion, and that I want to get them done while I've got some momentum going.<br />
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It was a real joy to lay the shingles on the tank lid--miracle of miracles, geometry works. My rings of shingles, each customized to match the pitch of the roof and account for the taper fit as they were designed. I'm not sure what I thought would happen, but am always suprised when something goes to plan! The sheet above is one of three shingle sheets--if you click on the water tower label at the right, you'll get the whole history of this . . . . </div>
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<br />Between laying shingles, I took a break to draw a finial, and I also started work on the band clamps. . . . while I did not intend to use the 3d printer on this, I thought that the roof was looking so good a real cap was in order. It's stuck in the printer until tomorrow morning, as I printed it along side a larger part--I can look through the acrylic cover and see it dangling perfectly from the build platform. . . . .<br />
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-20037097305631733112014-02-24T11:45:00.001-08:002014-02-24T15:10:19.225-08:00Dick Kerr WDLR 06I've pulled the latest round of prints from the 3d printer, and am really pleased with the results. I might adjust the assembly but I'm really pleased with the detail. I'm going to add some relief to a couple edges to make things look thinner, and break the insulators away from the radiator. The last revisions went really well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZcbSvwBHt1rt71obyW-6k0UnfMm-WKf3ma_e4_TwPDnMx2CA_Ias49tsELAiHhtQT-6G4K0gAV3mNEBO-IPHIIkjZh033UA-0mxXOaF_6gzehlt8UWsKjuy78mn47NuWlBkZ1B61xfvz/s1600/20140224_122250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCZcbSvwBHt1rt71obyW-6k0UnfMm-WKf3ma_e4_TwPDnMx2CA_Ias49tsELAiHhtQT-6G4K0gAV3mNEBO-IPHIIkjZh033UA-0mxXOaF_6gzehlt8UWsKjuy78mn47NuWlBkZ1B61xfvz/s1600/20140224_122250.jpg" height="320" width="180" /></a></div>
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Although I'm excited to work on the cab, I realized that I needed to sort the mechanism. Returning to my previous work, I started by drawing the gearbox, wheels, and motor in both 2d and 3d. I dropped the motor and gearbox in the model, and experimented with it's position. I may abandon the flywheel, as it stands it looks like I can get everything into the hood. Very cool.<br />
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One thing that's been bothering me about my previous work was that I only powered one axle. Although this might work, with such a small loco and such a small motor I wanted more power transmitted to the rail. This means connecting things with gears. There's just enough room in the body cavity to offset the motor to one side and connect the two axles with a series of gears. I started by drawing the <a href="http://www.nwsl.com/" target="_blank">Northwest Short Line</a> spur gear because I thought that I might create a system that was integrated with the NWSL gearbox. . . then better sense prevailed. A big part of the value of the NWSL gearbox is that the worm and associated thrusts are well worked out: messing with this seemed to invite gremlins. I can always play with an integrated system later. </div>
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The NWSL gears are all metric, the particular gearbox I chose is .03 MOD. It seemed logical enough to continue with that gear specification. I should point out that my version of the NWSL gear is close, but I may not be spot on, because I don't know exactly what the pitch of the NWSL gear is. I made some good assumptions and may have it, but won't know until I test. Given that my gears will not interact with the NWSL gears it does not matter, however I'd like to know. . . . </div>
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I've been using <a href="http://www.gearotic.com/" target="_blank">Gearotic Motion</a> and AutoCad for my mechanism design. Gearotic will give you the proper axle spacing between two spur gears. Using that information, it's possible to layout the precise geometry in AutoCad. As my plan is to cast the chassis in lead shot filled resin, I'm simply including a minor shrinkage factor in the tolerance. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhQswuDYXtbCNzP7KM-pfpYrxg-IY6KYuCQaF-8rK-jJ3q5vBVNdmdjlUQb-GnYXh2acsKGsErClYqCg-pD4BmNQDyakq9FQl85wiMDISQwJ200uZ09MsghuxVw9FuEbD3OvI6K3hkGyf/s1600/Gear+Layout.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJhQswuDYXtbCNzP7KM-pfpYrxg-IY6KYuCQaF-8rK-jJ3q5vBVNdmdjlUQb-GnYXh2acsKGsErClYqCg-pD4BmNQDyakq9FQl85wiMDISQwJ200uZ09MsghuxVw9FuEbD3OvI6K3hkGyf/s1600/Gear+Layout.JPG" height="201" width="320" /></a></div>
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Gearotic allows you to work from the gear specification and the number of teeth to create a .dxf, stl, or gcode. Although you can make a printable file from Gearotic, I'll probably use Rhino to design molds. From there I can make rubber molds and cast gears in engineering resin. <a href="http://www.gearotic.com/" target="_blank">Gearotic Motion</a> was developed by Art Fenerty, who also developed Mach3, a corner stone of the Home CNC comunity. I love the program.<br />
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Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-24300102586920617502014-02-23T13:37:00.001-08:002014-02-23T13:37:33.431-08:00Dick Kerr WDLR 05 I traced <a href="http://railsvagabonds.canalblog.com/archives/2012/09/13/25098989.html" target="_blank">this page</a> through a stray photo. It's been extremely helpful to see the radiator more clearly, and to gain some insight on the David Smith Drawings. Also a clear idea of the hood radiator relationship. Also note this Dick Kerr does not seem to have the trademark spokes in the front wheel set. They must have been changed out at some point. Similarly curious about the exhaust--assuming that's also been revised. <br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vxLhbUDzgVjEVh5lh0ficrH28kl1D1bpYmOJyIwycegm3f00AkqJCACBKgCksoKNg3nbecMkPMYOXhGvea3cbt6jtwWllSQKaBx3YJBUn3ttqB9PHXuq9AQS3s_ndGrnCAhSdSE_DlZC/s1600/79138357_o.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5vxLhbUDzgVjEVh5lh0ficrH28kl1D1bpYmOJyIwycegm3f00AkqJCACBKgCksoKNg3nbecMkPMYOXhGvea3cbt6jtwWllSQKaBx3YJBUn3ttqB9PHXuq9AQS3s_ndGrnCAhSdSE_DlZC/s1600/79138357_o.jpg" height="214" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From: http://railsvagabonds.canalblog.com/archives/2012/09/13/25098989.html</td></tr>
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No sooner did I find this than Bruce Wilson turned me on to <a href="http://www.tacot-des-lacs.com/" target="_blank">this page</a>. That's where this fantastic high angle photo resides:<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMP4KMGm6VkW5jOjRnoIxwn9bBurkC3zbUoJEJeYVNetXlqU9Y_Vy-b-WMDKOqcPF33zB0lQtMAg5ueywGq9OtrKmuqJBW-SAueXc41r9ufdpSz5AUQWLo-OP-avoKzLLkXY1jnnuKJVo/s1600/photo014+%25281%2529.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwMP4KMGm6VkW5jOjRnoIxwn9bBurkC3zbUoJEJeYVNetXlqU9Y_Vy-b-WMDKOqcPF33zB0lQtMAg5ueywGq9OtrKmuqJBW-SAueXc41r9ufdpSz5AUQWLo-OP-avoKzLLkXY1jnnuKJVo/s1600/photo014+%25281%2529.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">From: http://www.tacot-des-lacs.com/</td></tr>
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Seeing this caused me to reconsider how I was joining the hood to the body, and whether I wanted to model the rail along the hood as part of my casting. It seems to me that I should lower the joint to fit this image better. Bruce also found this image (attribution in caption):<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">http://www.16mm.org.uk/newsite/Christmas_Quiz/2012images/Loco10.jpg</td></tr>
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This of course clarifies some of the assumptions I have made. Radiator needs to be deeper, and the insulator bases are indeed massive castings. The image below illustrates how I've adjusted the rivets on top of the hood to better fit the images here. While I can't measure them directly, I can adjust the number and spacing. I now better understand the position of the straps on the roof--those are steel joints that don't necessarily align with the internal framework which is more closely aligned with the doors. The framework is reflected in the additional lines of rivets. I've also simplified thicknesses, and accepted 1.5mm as the necessary structural thickness at the sides (where they are not visible). I've also increased the seam carve away to .4mm. <br />
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After tackling the hood, I returned to thickening and revising the insulator and radiator based on the photos. The text on the radiator was bigger than I thought based on the David Smith drawings, and I chose to exaggerate it a bit more, hoping to make it legible in 7mm scale (1:43.5). I also removed the "rails", figuring those could be added later with brass if I chose to do so. I imagine a lot of these items (radiator cover, details) were removed by soldiers. While it's possible that these parts were not removed until the units were resold as surplus after the war, soldiers are notoriously practical, and hate to waste time. <br />
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Here's the revised hood and radiator assembly. It's off to the printer now. I am looking forward to spending time on the cab tonight, after some time away from the computer. Getting exciting--I'm hearing the engine in my imagination. . . . .<br />
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-87082735962598921212014-02-22T12:32:00.001-08:002014-02-22T12:35:39.757-08:00Peter's Most Wanted 02: Steam Elephant 1815-1825<div dir="ltr">
Next on the most wanted list is the Steam Elephant. A replica derived from paintings, sketches, and extensive research resides at the Pockerley Waggonway, part of the Beamish Museum near Newcastle. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from Wikipedia, author unkown.</td></tr>
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Attributed to John Buddle and William Chapmen, the elephant is similar to Puffing Billy in that it has vertically oriented cylinders mounted in the top of the boiler with aerial motion rods. That and the proportions of the smoke stack with a feed water heater at the base make it a very attractive subject in my eye. <br />
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We're planning a trip to England to visit my wife's family, and I'm hoping we can make a trip to Beamish so I can see and survey the locomotive. With that said, I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who is a step ahead of me, or has primary research on this locomotive or associated coal wagons. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Image from Wikipedia</td></tr>
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Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-23582718951856338872014-02-19T20:42:00.001-08:002014-03-13T21:24:05.795-07:00Peter's Most Wanted 01: 1850's B&O Iron Coal CarI'm looking for information on a few subjects, and from time to time I will post them here. If you've got solid information or research on the subject, I'd love to talk with you, as I'm interested in modelling these things. A couple people who have helped on the Dick Kerr project will be receiving castings of the parts I make so they can complete their own models. . . . .and, I may in time release a limited kit of the Dick Kerr.<br />
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<b>* * * Update * * *</b></div>
<b>I've checked in with the B&O Railroad Museum and have booked a ticket for may to photograph the car. There are a few limitations associated with the museum, such as using a fabric tape measure and not climbing on or under the equipment, however none of it will prevent me from gathering what I need. With luck I'll make progress on my other projects between now and then and be able to start a new thread for this one with original information this summer.</b><br />
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<b>* * * Update * * *</b></div>
<b>In the span of a day I figured out that these are more commonly referred to as "Pot Hoppers" That little piece of information lead me to an edition of B&O Modeler, and the fact that there is one of these cars in the B&O railroad museum. I''d love to hear from anyone in the area with access to car 23001.</b><br />
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First on the list? B&O Iron Coal Car. . . .1850s. I'm sure there is archival information somewhere, but I'm not there. . . . .anyone got the skinny on these pups? The below page is from my copy of <u>Civil War Railroads and Models</u> by Edwin P. Alexander.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iT4d_kzvyzuTdkxbmQ3BmwODjaZvsxQZNS8Cgtj4qLUArGWJl2E7DDFZfe69l0QEK8u_PbRv736iSNstLbXQsBSuL6RfPz9c9sNhi8WgVCedhlXxwDmRYlLnQP3Eu9lprFCCFZGdY3t_/s1600/B&O+COAL.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4iT4d_kzvyzuTdkxbmQ3BmwODjaZvsxQZNS8Cgtj4qLUArGWJl2E7DDFZfe69l0QEK8u_PbRv736iSNstLbXQsBSuL6RfPz9c9sNhi8WgVCedhlXxwDmRYlLnQP3Eu9lprFCCFZGdY3t_/s1600/B&O+COAL.jpg" height="320" width="238" /></a></div>
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I'm interested in the cars for their unique outline, and because they offer the opportunity to test some new digital modelling techniques combined with rapid prototyping. (I'm interested in capturing the dents and dings). It's also interesting to see the variation in the drawing above and the photograph which indicates construction was simplified in practice. There a few images floating around the net, one is from the above book, and I can't find attribution for the other. . . . so forgive that it is not cited here...if someone has attribution please let me know so I can credit the source. <br />
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If you've read this blog, you know a couple things: 1) I've got a lot of irons in the fire, and 2) I tend to take a little time to finish things. . so patience will be in order. . .that said, some of my projects are heating up and really rolling again. So, know that this all is on a longer time horizon.Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-60653037985425118572014-02-19T17:10:00.001-08:002014-02-19T17:10:43.895-08:00Dick Kerr WDLR 04, Form 1 02The Dick Kerr project is really moving along. I've been printing prototypes on the Form 1 and modelling. In the future I expect things to go faster, however I've been experimenting and learning.<br />
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One of the peculiarities of designing things digitally you can draw detail at scale. Even if you can print it, which the Form 1 can, you can't always see it. I've spent several hours "beefing up" hardware so it's more visible in the final print. It looks silly in the 3d model, but boy does it look good output at scale. The images below illustrate, the lavender color is the exaggerated hardware, the orange is drawn near scale, with some thickness boost to meet minimum resolution requirements.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTg7yc0sEqmPc5uUpQon4NrQH6EoOUFHjp40KR9kX4NQ9Dfoxv1V8FqUh1PBxPI6c2iUEe-F-hr0ftkltiRIrul3EZ4pViBnAhKNiZdg3KXcXIsoc95pat6cQ2L8U4v4n3xFHsKohNa0RE/s1600/exagerated.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTg7yc0sEqmPc5uUpQon4NrQH6EoOUFHjp40KR9kX4NQ9Dfoxv1V8FqUh1PBxPI6c2iUEe-F-hr0ftkltiRIrul3EZ4pViBnAhKNiZdg3KXcXIsoc95pat6cQ2L8U4v4n3xFHsKohNa0RE/s1600/exagerated.JPG" height="225" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHiWvjoAMHnLTU1XFiPdEC-JYvRYpKhGgovm8uT58zRHPqcnvQszaEAqFriLlxpQcg52duHbjLMZtaoVYVV494yYW-YBg6EoVfukfR_c1SpAfODp2vsBKSsEmxDZo1FM4XwU9TGviolgu/s1600/Near+Scale.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCHiWvjoAMHnLTU1XFiPdEC-JYvRYpKhGgovm8uT58zRHPqcnvQszaEAqFriLlxpQcg52duHbjLMZtaoVYVV494yYW-YBg6EoVfukfR_c1SpAfODp2vsBKSsEmxDZo1FM4XwU9TGviolgu/s1600/Near+Scale.JPG" height="215" width="320" /></a></div>
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I've spent a good amount of time in both Rhino and Photoshop, extrapolating, doing and re-doing. I started with the most delicate parts, and have gradually worked towards the more general ones--all the while re-building parts as needed based on lessons learned from successful and failed prints.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzJ0j6e9kqWeC4xXAAceoZpO8NWYNxg3HSFAG9uPx2Vcb91yu9GQa6qZjpm2o8TbVeurQ3UlWO_m3Dd8aKHXPW1svMT6OiffQXc0NAfw7XcG8_DC-lPSswyFX6TV0xcjyrnGkDsQG4DQS3/s1600/Beefing+up+hardware.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzJ0j6e9kqWeC4xXAAceoZpO8NWYNxg3HSFAG9uPx2Vcb91yu9GQa6qZjpm2o8TbVeurQ3UlWO_m3Dd8aKHXPW1svMT6OiffQXc0NAfw7XcG8_DC-lPSswyFX6TV0xcjyrnGkDsQG4DQS3/s1600/Beefing+up+hardware.JPG" height="196" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Z7d9V29haOliukMzv1glKyyLK56Eu3mR0VuEBj7J1_d1dq3G_m_QBRAMNKF5_GA5SKxn03qgMfHphQF-nEThhyTWhHAkzKSDePRju-ekWiM-mq89OHVxzF-Jlu7vubpT4ElNWtOnxXHj/s1600/Radiator+Dick+Kerr.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4Z7d9V29haOliukMzv1glKyyLK56Eu3mR0VuEBj7J1_d1dq3G_m_QBRAMNKF5_GA5SKxn03qgMfHphQF-nEThhyTWhHAkzKSDePRju-ekWiM-mq89OHVxzF-Jlu7vubpT4ElNWtOnxXHj/s1600/Radiator+Dick+Kerr.JPG" height="106" width="320" /></a></div>
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My build style is to have a mother model based on an AutoCad drawing. I keep things in logical subassemblies on layers. I then "move them off" and regroup them as needed to export my .stl files. This method preserves sanity and maximum flexibility. I keep the coordinate locations the same between the two softwares, so if I need to work in line I can draw in AutoCad, which is much faster, and then import and know things will line up. Precision counts. If in doubt, rebuild it, it's faster than fussing with a repair.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZxsmetv3k6E93XKGgtVLdo2ZXtqOcgc4LZvC45S_6MD_DgNx5D0qyW-uvH2RxsV6p9KZiBytQwivmjdybBZg8xjFvevSaJbrjc3oDso32CZdxEK99e1y_eHAVnZFlmv2x8NrllWKOMrm8/s1600/KERR+II.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZxsmetv3k6E93XKGgtVLdo2ZXtqOcgc4LZvC45S_6MD_DgNx5D0qyW-uvH2RxsV6p9KZiBytQwivmjdybBZg8xjFvevSaJbrjc3oDso32CZdxEK99e1y_eHAVnZFlmv2x8NrllWKOMrm8/s1600/KERR+II.JPG" height="248" width="320" /></a></div>
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As I make prints I'm updating the model. Ultimately I'll make the cab to final standard--and skip doing the rivets in true scale, as it's pretty pointless. </div>
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I'm also fairly certain that my ultimate plan will be to cast most of the model in resin, reducing the number of 3d printed parts in the final model. That way I'll only have to print masters. As I want a few, and I know Bruce Wilson wants a couple, casting will be more cost effective . . . .especially if I decide to make a few more. </div>
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I have other exciting news on the mechanism design, but I'll save that for when I have some photos.</div>
<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-78933750600979936182014-02-02T11:33:00.001-08:002014-02-02T14:34:29.649-08:00Form 1 01<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/t5-5AJI68RU?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
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<i>I've been off line for a while. This fall I took a job in St. Louis. . . . which is great, except for the fact that I have a life and a business in Utah. So, I'm commuting a 3000 mile round trip most weeks. That's put a big dent in the model railroading. It fits the title of being Random. . . . .</i><br>
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My <a href="http://formlabs.com/" target="_blank">Formlabs Form 1</a> printer arrived a couple weeks ago, and I've been putting it through it's paces, getting used to the ins and outs of stereo lithography. For those not familiar with the Form 1, it uses a laser diode to cure resin in a vat. This differs from the printers like Makerbot, where liquid plastic is deposited from a nozzle. This laser cured resin allows finer resolution, and finer freestanding details. <br>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Still wet pieces that have just come out of the resin vat, still adhered to the build platform.</td></tr>
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The key to good results with the Form 1, in my observation so far boils down to three things:1) hygene, 2) grooming your resin, and 3) part orientation:<br>
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1) Anything involving optics and sticky goo in a tub over those objects in a world full of dust demands attention. I keep a plastic bag over my Form 1, both to keep dust out, and to reduce further exposure to UV light in my daylit workshop (the orange cover is a UV filter).<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEQunu2CY4qK9j9mxFwBXDHq_4tOISIHpNHVJ5lot_AIBV1AlGVOgs6mgF8xiw87OhOljdodvmq4Oz3oV8CTP4rjFR3jft2Zfj-ruayR93eisEJijRtMmrjRQl3aYSJOh1SSnzOKw0Tkb6/s1600/20140202_115800.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgEQunu2CY4qK9j9mxFwBXDHq_4tOISIHpNHVJ5lot_AIBV1AlGVOgs6mgF8xiw87OhOljdodvmq4Oz3oV8CTP4rjFR3jft2Zfj-ruayR93eisEJijRtMmrjRQl3aYSJOh1SSnzOKw0Tkb6/s1600/20140202_115800.jpg" height="320" width="180"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Combs and confidence, and a sensitive touch, essential equipment.</td></tr>
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2) It takes a few goes to get used to running your scraper over the optical silicone vat bottom, but you get the hang of it. You want to search for floaters, and also gently dislodge any resin stuck to the bottom. If you use inadequate support, your piece will stay on the vat, and not rise with the build platform. The array of combs in the above photo is for getting out the loose bits once they are dislodged. Formlabs has a couple good articles about this on their site. Grooming resin is one of the most delicate things to do, because you risk dripping resin. I've got the entire set up on a level piece of glass for ease of cleaning.<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhancz9N7EGQCgDGzncxaIvogzA2uQFCsfbqlhTbqXgxwozjpKZ6SalhhBZwm1iElkhQO2izqixh3_GodGTtPvZkR4Vj1HXY9v3fONTNwfqsWRRpzQKuRD_wPJw1gS1TLow2NSK6UakdI8k/s1600/IMG_2620SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhancz9N7EGQCgDGzncxaIvogzA2uQFCsfbqlhTbqXgxwozjpKZ6SalhhBZwm1iElkhQO2izqixh3_GodGTtPvZkR4Vj1HXY9v3fONTNwfqsWRRpzQKuRD_wPJw1gS1TLow2NSK6UakdI8k/s1600/IMG_2620SM.jpg" height="213" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Although I labled this a support failure, both pieces with the "V" oriented that direction were distorted, so it was more than the supports. Pieces facing the other direction were fine. The hollow honey comb is something the Form 1 is very good at. This bolster courtesy of Jim Lincoln.</td></tr>
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3) Part orientation and support is key. Depending on the form of the part it can disport as it undergoes the peel process. Adding more supports will reduce distortion, but increases post processing. After enough observation I'm getting a sense of the best combination of support and orientation.<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDZRsSHCamO23w3Iv4GgUzjY-gs8NQo07xTsRzYWSTr_8JjiKaDWxFHWo9Qtyntl1cI67PSJEbM02ac1xg0u5_1FOQxrsTKOPW4uHlhsBZ32QeyIAFMm3W9uR48QEWYsZ01u9mLUM_aw3Q/s1600/IMG_2627SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDZRsSHCamO23w3Iv4GgUzjY-gs8NQo07xTsRzYWSTr_8JjiKaDWxFHWo9Qtyntl1cI67PSJEbM02ac1xg0u5_1FOQxrsTKOPW4uHlhsBZ32QeyIAFMm3W9uR48QEWYsZ01u9mLUM_aw3Q/s1600/IMG_2627SM.jpg" height="213" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Text on WSLCO washers, models courtesy of Jason Reis.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfH8SjZh2KRIhMOhXBt473qv6onGG3PZTYxUV3UwgbjNWR8duRtRUB2MqTK3dSOzczeeLHJM-iW3PMlUwcc3ai29RHkTwXC3az1LCEkujFhwbCEPxMJ_OchgrfqW_qvk4gWX5CgX35dWJR/s1600/IMG_2626SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfH8SjZh2KRIhMOhXBt473qv6onGG3PZTYxUV3UwgbjNWR8duRtRUB2MqTK3dSOzczeeLHJM-iW3PMlUwcc3ai29RHkTwXC3az1LCEkujFhwbCEPxMJ_OchgrfqW_qvk4gWX5CgX35dWJR/s1600/IMG_2626SM.jpg" height="213" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Unbelievably small and detailed journals for my Dick Kerr project.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0u9cgtatnSmYLB3mjlX45KwMYR4ps_GtZzwSnx0EwIfV8zHarj-qht6XcdyKWFablJ-5tlyNpEqYi1lyTpEj90QCbHdsKoDEFBZJ-nmK_ATU6IAeQOgf8cyGDOsdbt925zTUz97fw6gS0/s1600/IMG_2624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0u9cgtatnSmYLB3mjlX45KwMYR4ps_GtZzwSnx0EwIfV8zHarj-qht6XcdyKWFablJ-5tlyNpEqYi1lyTpEj90QCbHdsKoDEFBZJ-nmK_ATU6IAeQOgf8cyGDOsdbt925zTUz97fw6gS0/s1600/IMG_2624.JPG" height="213" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another shot of Jason's washers.</td></tr>
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I've read a lot of reporting on the Form 1. It's a fantastic machine, though it requires practice and a bit of patience. Compared to my Subtractive Rapid Prototype machine it's really easy to use and far neater. It's just slightly more involved than a laser cutter. More than worth it for it's unique capability. <br>
<br>Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-57660818350836830692013-09-02T16:24:00.001-07:002013-09-02T16:24:52.374-07:00MRR Contest Build 07Not too much forward progress on the contest build, at least not obviously, but still moving forward. I've been working on getting the base level of the ground cover complete so that I could start painting and weathering the ground form. <br />
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I'm using a mixture of techniques--spackling compound, paper, dirt, broken up plaster. Each of these things is being permanently affixed. Once it's all secure I'm going to selectively paint it and go over it with india ink washes. For the time being I'm just going for basic form. I'm going to paint the big plaster bits to represent broken up concrete, common in industrial land fill situations. <br />
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I've been building up the paved areas and finishing the building interface points. The most notable addition is the mound that will become a salt pile. I think my technique of using an old towel painted with glue will do a good job of simulating the dynamic of a salt pile. That may be a good subject for a future article.<br />
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I'll be excited when I can get back to painting. I'm realizing that I'm happiest when I have an airbrush or dry paintbrush in my hand. Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-64725029701761612092013-08-25T17:41:00.004-07:002013-08-25T18:53:40.548-07:00MRR Contest Build 06<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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It was time to let things dry for a while this afternoon, when I looked at the clock I realized that I just tipped the 40 hour mark on the contest build. It's been a while since I've updated the blog on this or any topic, and that's mainly because I've just been trying to squeeze any minute I can into the build. <br />
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I've got most of the buildings assembled in rough form: that means basic coloring and assembly, but no fine detail. I also spent a solid hour airbrushing the silo, layering earth and concrete colors, trying to give the plain structure some life. <br />
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The pavement sections are paper laminated to cardboard (awaiting paint), and the ground surface is dirt and plaster waste over a terry cloth towel. I simply stapled the towel down over miscelaneous bits of stuff to prop it, soaked it in dilute glue, and added sifted dirt. It sounds bizzarre but it works.<br />
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The buildings each have a plywood base that fits into a "hole" on the layout so they can be removed for transport. The paper buildings still weigh next to nothing even with the plywood base. I'm excited to see things start to come together. I have some real work to do on the paving, and a lot of scenery base to finish, but I'm liking the composition of the structures. Just have to be patient while the glue and weights do their thing.<br />
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<br />Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5469061576693320432.post-89011876247751962372013-07-29T20:47:00.002-07:002013-07-29T20:47:30.583-07:00MRR Contest Build 05, Passenger Cars 05 <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I'm in the midst of building three structures for the shelf layout build. At this point I have not "built" much of anything, save for the cement silo. I put "built" in quotes because I have spent time in Photoshop doing some virtual construction.<br />
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<br />I've purchased several textures from Scale Scenes, Clever, and even taken a few items from photos. These are laid over a schematic cut file that I prepared based on the "site dimensions". Those cut lines show in the images included here, however, I don't print them--the identifying text won't print either. The black lines in the upper left corner are my registration marks for the laser. I've also done some virtual airbrushing to break up the monotony of the printed texture. It does not look like much, but it helps. Shadows and reflections give things dimension in advance of weathering with other means.<br />
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I've also removed the silo from the mold, and the mold came out fantastically well. I'm excited to make at least a couple structures for this and future layouts. If I'm lucky, someone will want to trade, as the mold will clearly have some life! At this point I am about 19 hours into the build, including mold making and computer work.<br /><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQcJIahVdq-w4DwcQ86-_qoUt2uMF535iCi9_LuKQ7UkFJqzrrlATqynCA9TAhkbSmy7-SKnmBUZxOGyRxFs6HcUMiLpIz62gKG7r6jslCk44Mn2GxR6ImWh5KxwXyOvtMOueOkCABoL-3/s1600/Silo+Mold+and+Master+SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQcJIahVdq-w4DwcQ86-_qoUt2uMF535iCi9_LuKQ7UkFJqzrrlATqynCA9TAhkbSmy7-SKnmBUZxOGyRxFs6HcUMiLpIz62gKG7r6jslCk44Mn2GxR6ImWh5KxwXyOvtMOueOkCABoL-3/s320/Silo+Mold+and+Master+SM.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsS2H45n7HZo-hovQzl59V7PCMd91pV515-XyHJG7WtQhcI2oYig67X87-glegoW8alCvZua-oocSsg4lTV8SichQcRndO2EHrf3I834azibFemQXW1mEjgcn61I2UJ_p_RoEwffHYTjlf/s1600/Silo+Mold+SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsS2H45n7HZo-hovQzl59V7PCMd91pV515-XyHJG7WtQhcI2oYig67X87-glegoW8alCvZua-oocSsg4lTV8SichQcRndO2EHrf3I834azibFemQXW1mEjgcn61I2UJ_p_RoEwffHYTjlf/s320/Silo+Mold+SM.jpg" width="180" /></a></div>
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The passenger car roof mold came out well too. I'm excited to start making a few of those, but that will have to wait. . . . for now.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlFeXVFR-ASYua3Y0VGI_bIIMirJGcaZpM_TAsbwggsevcB_HdadvGGR16ueDgflWzmeZu7N09wxsBWkW0wkrIwQPFun1opYS79r_adsPmTpEnJ0dwN1GLMgEc_48UN9V_stGwFZ5V4bG8/s1600/Passenger+Roof+SM.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlFeXVFR-ASYua3Y0VGI_bIIMirJGcaZpM_TAsbwggsevcB_HdadvGGR16ueDgflWzmeZu7N09wxsBWkW0wkrIwQPFun1opYS79r_adsPmTpEnJ0dwN1GLMgEc_48UN9V_stGwFZ5V4bG8/s320/Passenger+Roof+SM.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Peter S.http://www.blogger.com/profile/06779709312667353886noreply@blogger.com0